The Mazda B-series is a "non-interference" design, meaning that breakage of its timing belt does not result in damage to valves or pistons, because the opening of the valves, the depth of the combustion chamber and (in some variants) the shaping of the piston crown allow sufficient clearance for the open valves in any possible piston position.ġ.1 L (1,138 cc) B1 - (68.0x78.4 mm) - came only as a SOHC 8-valve. It was used from front-wheel drive economy applications to the turbocharged full-time 4WD 323 GTX and rear-wheel drive Miata as well as numerous other models. The MP3 does not have this solenoid or VTCS system - they have no reports of any engine rattling like the P5 and 2.0L sedans.The Mazda B-series engine - not to be confused with the Mazda B-Series truck - is a small-sized, iron-block, inline four-cylinder with belt-driven SOHC and DOHC valvetrain ranging in displacement from 1.1 to 1.8 litres. But if it bothers you that much, do a search, and follow the instructions to bypass the solenoid, and you will have no more rattle, guaranteed. The rattling has - at least for now - been determined to not cause any engine damage - it's just a rattle, nothing more. Simply unplugging the thing will cause check engine warnings and trouble codes. Someone here posted that they disconnected the vacuums to the solenoid - but re-connected the in and out vacuum tubes to one another (basically bypassing the solenoid) and the rattle went away completely. Now as fas I know it is not the solenoid itself that causes the rattle, it is what the solenoid controls - it is a timing-related rattling. ![]() This solenoid changes the timing of the car when cold, allowing for far less emissions during warm-up - this is how the Pro5 (and sedans, but NOT the MP3) have ULEV (ultra low emissions vehicle) status. ![]() The rattle is caused by the VTCS (variable timing control solenoid). There is no fix right now, but at least the issue is documented: You are partly correct, butthis "rattle" is a known issue, and Mazda has issued a bulletin to all the dealers about it. If this works, perhaps we could recommend it to Mazda and they could find a new place to put this valve and then fix everyone's annoying rattle. Perhaps someone can try it? This can be simply done by unplugging the purge solenoid valve (mounted on the intake between the MAF and throttle body). Is the VTCS system somehow connected to the purge solenoid valve? I don't have VTCS, so I can't trace it. I know a make-shift solution to the rattle was made by unplugging the VTCS connector. but I was wondering if any of the technical guys in here could look it over and see if it makes sense. The vibration is transferred directly to the engine and is absorbed by the engine mounts. Guess what? No more rattle and no more ticking. Finally, I moved the valve to the intake manifold where the VTCS connector is. I remounted it using soft rubber washers, but it only made the tick a bit more quiet. Being mounted there, the cycling is transmitted directly to the firewall and into the passenger compartment. When Injen installed their CAI, they moved the purge solenoid valve to a bracket mounted on the firewall. A vibration caused by this valve could easily make the rattle sound we all hate. The stock intake is loosely put together and is made of a hard plastic. Stock, this valve is mounted on the plastic intake between the MAF and throttle body. It is normal for it to quickly cycle on and off, hence the tick. I inquired at my local dealership and a technician looked up the valve. ![]() One vacuum hose goes to the throttle body while the other goes to the charcoal vapor recovery canister mounted on the passenger-side firewall. This valve is a small vacuum control valve which has two vacuum hoses and an electrical connection. I traced the tick to the purge solenoid valve. This was even more embarassing and annoying than the rattle! This tick was about twice as fast as the turn signal and much louder. However, it was replaced by a nasty tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick sound during the same instances the rattle used to occur. ![]() This rattle went away after my Injen CAI was installed. It would come on during warm-up, during idle-down (when the ECU holds rpms just above idle for a few seconds before returning to idle), and occasionly while idling. I had this rattle, though not as severe, on my 1.8L. I believe one member has referred to it as a lawnmower sound. I have a theory on the Protege rattle that has plagued the 2.0L cars the most.Īs a refresher, this rattle comes from the engine compartment, especially when the engine is cold and warming up.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |